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CHARTER IN THE GULF OF NAPLES
The special holiday atmosphere, so proudly passed to our
days, was first given to Campania Archipelago by our Roman ancestors
Nautica Magazine
n. 401, september 1995
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SAILING BY NECESSITY
(an old roman saying)
There is nothing new in the fact that the coast of the Campania
region (Italy) are , as far as holidays are concerned, one of the
best stages for sailing cruise. Traffic is certainly the heaviest,
but by choosing accurately dates and times and avoiding week ends,
one can enjoy one of the world's best scenery. For our cruise, we
shall select only three islands leaving the discovery of the many
coastal jewels to a tour by car.
The closest to the main land, and the less known to sailing
wanderer, is Procida island which by no means is less attractive
then the others, better known, islands. Procida lies in front of
Miseno Cape and the channel dividing the island from the mainland
and bearing the same Capès name is difficult to negotiate
due to the presence of many reefs across it. The biggest of these
latter dangers to navigation, named as Torrione reef, is marked by
a lighted spar. Marina di Procida, the main town, lies on the
northern side of the island and its port is made of a dock , this
latter also acting as breakwater.
Extreme care should be exercise when entering the harbor due to
the heavy ferry traffic; a marina under construction and almost
finished (250 berths are already available) offer possibilities of
docking. Completely built with yellow tuff rock and with orange
trees scattered everywhere, Procida convey the unspoiled glamour
of the old sea towns. The housing conglomerate called the
"Palazzata", resultant of a very liberal and randomly executed
construction minus a proper building plan, has produced an
architectural ensemble typical of the location and not found
elsewhere. Inland, in the hart of a boroughs called Terra Murata,
a huge parade ground overlooks the Saint Michael abbey rebuilt
during the Spanish rule after being destroyed by the Saracens.
Circumnavigating Procida, shelter can be found at the Vivara islet
connected to the shore by an artificial isthmus. The islet which
seats a natural park, is covered by a thick vegetation and a
lookout tower stands at its top. The cove formed by the two
islands make for an excellent anchorage; alternatively one can
call at Chiaolella harbor where boats with 15 meters LOA can be
taken in.
On Ischia island much has been said and written. With an area
equal to 47 square kilometers, is the biggest of the Gulf's
islands offering many interesting aspects. Inhabited since the
pre-roman times, the island was famous for its clay used to carve
vases and useful containers and in the third century B.C. suffered
of volcanic eruption which left a salt lake in place of the
volcano mouth. The lake was to remain separated from the sea until
the last century when king Ferdinand the Second ordered to dig an
opening obtaining a natural harbor that was christened by the
royal yacht "Delfino" escorting more than one hundred boats and
giving to Ischia the safest port one can seek. There is room for
200 berths with LOA up to 30 meters with full and efficient
services. Above all, the call at Ischia is worth for a visit to
the renown thermal baths, last remainder of the island's volcanic
origin, and where with a water temperature of 65 degrees C one is
washed as well as properly purified and healthily refitted.
Another anchorage is found at the Carta Romana road, close to the
Aragonese castle built by Gerone of Syracuse an lava islet and
overhanging the sea. The castle was conquered by King Alphonse of
Aragona who exploited a newly built bridge to capture it. Since
then , this particular place is named Ischia Ponte, the Italian
name for bridge. This pristine and charming place, not too distant
from the Saint Anne reefs, is a preferred diving site where in
water depth no more than ten meters the ruins of Aenaria , a pre-
roman hamlet destroyed by a volcanic eruption on 130 B.C., can be
inspected. Navigating anti-clockwise. the nearest landing is at
Cassamicciola, a place renown since the Middle Age for its healing
waters. There is room at this port for 100 boats with LOA up to 60
meters; there is however a draught limitation of 2.5 meters at the
dock and a shallow water patch with water depth of about 1 meter
at the harbor center. Lacco Ameno and its patron saint, Santa
Restituita, whose original building dates back to the year 1000,
offers only a finger pier and whose head is used by ferries. There
are two new docks but water depth here is between 3 and 1.2 meters
as well. Thirty boats with maximum LOA of 15 meters can be moored
here. Immediately around Soccorso point the port of Fiorio, with a
small church and Mount Apium, 800 meters high, both overlooking
it, can be easily reached. While a new port installation is being
built, only forty boats not exceeding 40 meters LOA can be
accepted her.
Sant' Angelo, sheltered by the homonymous cape and two cliffs, has
one 50 meters long pier where about 50 boats with 50 meters
maximum LOA can be taken.
However, the true jewel of the Gulf is
Capri island whose splendid
shape is renown the world over. It was not by pure chance that
Emperor Augustus, coming back from Egypt, felt in love with the
place, bought and elected it as his favorite home. Tatter Emperor
Tiberius brought it to fame giving to the island that particular,
slightly transgress atmosphere that has been transmitted to our
days by modern tourism. Who has not heard of the Blue Grotto or
the incredible cliffs, the Faraglioni, last remnants of what once
was a unique and immense grotto? Other highlights of this
remarkable island are Villa Jovis and the Solaro mountain, 589
meters high and easily climbed with a seat lift, from where one
can enjoy the entire gulf's view. The locally famous cable car
will take you from Marina Grande to the equally famous little
square where the entire Capri lifestyle is on permanent show. Due
to the tourist flow, heavy and steady regardless of the season,
the island is not worth visiting in daylight hours: hordes of
tourists from everywhere continuously land and wander here. Those
lucky enough to have a hotel room booked in advance or own a house
there or, better, have their boat moored nearby will better enjoy
the island best site. With the last ferry gone to the main land ,
the island's population stabilize at acceptable levels and,
especially in the cold season the entire place is yours together
with the romantic paths, the sophisticated restaurants, the juicy
ice cream parlors of that unique establishment making mozzarella
cheese braids billed with prosciutto and tasty herb, The port is
made of a basin protected by two breakwaters and is divided in
three sections: the commercial, the tourist and the wet basin
itself. The tourist portion can accommodate 350 boats with LOA up
to 60 meters and has a water depth of 7 meters. From the Marina
Grande entrance and turning anti-clockwise, one reaches the Blue
Grotto; the place is easily identified by the numerous rowing
boats standing nearby. By calling one of them you can, tide
permitting, visit the grotto inside and enjoy a view found nowhere
else. After rounding the Arcera Cape and Carena Point the southern
island's part is reached. Marina Piccola will offer only a series
of small landing piers offering brief and relative shelter to
small boats; continuing coastwise one reaches the "Faraglioni"
area, ideal for an unforgettable swim if the season is right,
followed by a lunch in one of the restaurants behind Tragara Point
reachable after a pleasant pram ride. There will be ample time to
complete the island's circumnavigation and be back at the Marina
Grande moorings, ready to face the intensely passionate
Caprìs night life
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