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Following the previous issues on the electrical plant, lets start
with some useful advises to optimize this essential part of the boat
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BATTERIES: ESSENTIAL COMPONENTS
- Remember, when leaving the boat, to switch off all electrical
appliances, to open the main batteries switch and the shore line
switch. Please keep in mind that "to open a switch" (usually this
position is indicated by "OFF" or "0") means to break the circuit,
while "to close a witch" means to connect a circuit (usually shown
on electrical panels with "ON" or "I"). It may seems obvious but,
in everyday life, some misunderstanding may occur.
Before opening the main batteries switches, be sure you shut off
all the electrical appliances which are in use or which have
current. The battery switch is not a common switch and can be
seriously damaged by high electrical loads.
- Shut off all circuits and magnetotermic switches which are not
in use, when you are on board as well. Unused circuits under
tension can improve the possibility of damages.
- Remember to worm up the generator set for 2-3 minutes,
especially during the winter, before supplying the electric
plant. This is, on the other hand, an excellent practical rule for
all engines.
Check, just after starting, that the generator sea water
cooling system is running. In this case, the sea water flow is
visible at the exhaust pipe outlet.
- Shut off all AC current appliances before stopping the
generator: stopping a generator under load may cause damages to
the generator itself.
- Remember to run the generator without any load for a couple of
minutes before stopping it, especially if the generator's engine
is turbocharged. In this way the oil will cool down and it will
cool down the generator as well.
- Check the ammeter (the instrument which quantify the amount of
energy being used) every time you turn on or off an appliance.
This simple habit will allow you to detect immediately every
inefficiency which may occur.
- The ammeter is the instrument which quantify the amount of
energy being produced by the engines' alternator. Once the engines
are started, the instrument will first display an high value
because the batteries are being charged. This value will
constantly reduce till the batteries are completely charged. From
this point on, the instrument will show the same amount of energy
which is being used on board (light, instruments, pumps etc.). In
this case the batteries absorb from the alternators the same
amount they give to the on board plants.
- The automatic battery charger employ the same criteria. First
it will provide the energy required to re-charge the batteries,
and then it will deliver the energy required by the on board
plants.
Some battery charges have a manual option which allow to keep on
charging the batteries even after they have reached their maximum
capacity. This operation is, however, extremely dangerous, because
it cause batteries overheating which can seriously damage the
batteries themselves.
The building yards should, in my opinion, supply those type of
battery chargers with a "safety switch", so to be sure that the
"manual" option is available only when required. The battery
charger must be set on "manual" only if the automatic circuit is
damaged or in case the batteries are completely down thus
requiring a particular charging method: in both cases a constant
inspection is required.
- Each engines drive one alternator (on twin engines
installation). Every alternator is connected to a batteries set.
Do you know which alternator give current to the auxiliaries
batteries?
It is very important because, when you start the engines, you have
to start first the one which is connected to the engines'
batteries, so that the other engine will surely start.
- Before you start the engine you have to disconnect the battery
charger so to avoid interference with the alternator . This is a
good practical rule although most boats are fitted with circuits
especially designed to prevent this problem.
- The generator set has its own starting battery, which is
charged by the generator itself. If this battery is down, you can
only start the generator by connecting it to another battery with
an electrical wire (just like those used on cars). Check, when you
buy them, that they are long enough to reach one of the batteries
on board. Connect them properly, and remove them with care right
after the generator's start. Be aware of short circuit, when
removing the wires.
BATTERIES INSPECTION
Batteries, used on boats today, are of different types, such as:
car batteries, industrial batteries or nautical batteries. The
performances required depends on the job they have to do. In fact,
a battery for main engine starting must support short but heavy
loads, while auxiliaries batteries must supply energy constantly
and for long time. Therefore one should expect different types of
batteries on board, according to their purpose. Economical
requirements, however, usually influence the yard's batteries
choice; sometimes the batteries employed on board are not those
especially designed for the required application.
All batteries, anyway, need maintenance, even many of those
certified as "maintenance free".
All batteries are manufactured in a similar way: an external
chassis contain the "elements" which are drown into the
"electrolyte" . The elements are divided one another by cells
which are electrically connected: each cell has its amount of
electrolyte and its level must be constantly checked. On liquid
electrolyte batteries (the most common), the solution is made ,
for the majority, of distilled water. Its evaporation reduce the
level which need to be filled up once in a while.
Evaporation occur due to overheating: this happen because of the
location of the batteries (the engine room is a real hot place,
especially during the summer) and because of the periodical re-
charge of the batteries, which produce heat. If the charging
current is high, in particular, the electrolyte may evaporate
quickly and if the elements are dry (even partially) the battery
may be seriously damaged. Some of the most modern batteries have a
creamy electrolyte (gel), which is less exposed to evaporation
problems.
BATTERIES' MAINTENANCE
First of all, and in case the shore line is connected or the
generator is running, you have to shut off the battery charger,.
Then you have to disconnect the DC plant (which is the one fed by
the batteries) opening the batteries switch.
Then we will disconnect first the negative wire followed by the
positive. Particular care must be exercised in storing those two
wires, in order to avoid accidental contacts between them or short
circuits with other batteries. Covering each terminal with
insulating tape is, however, good practice. Afterward the top
surface of the battery can be cleaned with a wiper, so to avoid
dirt entrance when opening the caps. It is a good safety rule to
wear protection gloves (those usually used for dish-washing are
fine) in order to avoid contact with corrosive solutions.
Then we will check the electrolyte level, filling it up, if
necessary, with distilled water only. The electrolyte must,
however, be clean, pure and transparent: if the liquid is cloudy,
then the element is surely damaged. The inspection of a battery
condition must be carried out with a densimeter, which is an
instrument measuring the density of the electrolyte. It is,
essentially, made of a graduated glass tube, a float and a hand
rubber pump. The latter allow the entrance of the liquid, while
the float indicate on the scale the amount of charge of the
element. The working principle of the densimeter is based on the
fact that the electrolyte density is proportional to the charge of
the element.
After each measurement the liquid will be replaced in its cell,
which is then closed.
Attention: the charge condition of a battery can not be measured
only by checking the voltmeter on the main electrical board. In
fact, a damaged battery can show a normal "empty voltage" (meaning
the voltage shown when the battery is not supplying power) but can
not be able to deliver voltage to the electrical appliances.
The next step is to remove the batteries from their housing:
particular care must be exercised, because they are usually heavy
and, therefore, dangerous.
Attention: the electrolyte is highly corrosive. Always wear safety
glasses and protection gloves before handling the batteries. In
case of skin contact wash immediately with water; in case of eyes
contact consult a doctor immediately.
We can, then, clean the batteries' holder, washing it with fresh
water, so to remove every acid remaining. Dry carefully the entire
area afterward.
The battery holder may not be watertight. If this is the case, the
water will surely drain to the bilge. Please remember to dry out
the bilge before the cleaning operations start, and to dry it
again once the operation is completed. Remember that is forbidden
to discharge overboard polluted waters: and this is good practice
as well!
Clean the battery with fresh water (better if you use distilled
water) and dry it out with care.
The electrodes, those poles to which the terminals are connected,
must be sanded to remove oxidation residues.
Check the terminal to wire connection and replace it if this is
the case (ask to a professional electrician). All the above
operations are necessary to ensure a perfect connection between
the batteries and the electrical appliances they supply.
I want to be clear on the fact that a poor connection will
compromise the overall performances of the electric plant (the
lower the voltage the higher the consumption) while it is
dangerous as well, because the improved "connection resistance"
lead to terminals overheating causing fire on board in the most
extreme cases. On the other hand this is true for all electrical
connections.
Vibrations on board are responsible for connection loosing and,
therefore, I suggest to check connections and terminals habitually.
Once you are done with all these inspections, you can place the
batteries in their housing and re-connect the terminals, being
sure they are fastened properly. It is good practice to cover the
connection with Vaseline, in order to avoid air contact which is
responsible for oxidation.
Remember to check constantly the liquid level, in orger to
understand the evaporation rate of your batteries and to schedule
the filling period. All the elements must be covered by the
electrolyte.
If the batteries discharge too fast both the batteries and the
electric plant may be responsible: in this case call immediately
an electrician.
The batteries may need a charging period: it is usually performed
discharging completely the battery and then re-charging it slowly.
If the problem depends on the charging devices it is necessary to
check the engines' alternator or the battery charger.
Dispersion may cause fast battery discharge rates as well. In this
case, the best thing to do is to inspect the electric plant with a
professional electrician.
Here are some practical advice to keep in mind:
- The batteries' holding box serve the purpose of storing the
batteries and preventing them from moving: it must be always easy
to reach.
- The box cover serve the purpose of keeping clean the
batteries, of avoiding short circuits and water entrance. It must
be easy to remove without any particular tool. In case your
battery box do not have a cover, remember to shelter the terminals
with rubber protections (just like on cars)
- Be sure that the batteries' position is high enough to ensure
a perfect working condition even with some water in the engine
room: twice the water level needed to start the bilge pumps is a
good reference point.
- The batteries are among the most important part of your boat,
supplying energy to all on board appliances: do not forget them in
their dark tiny space in the engine room and consider them as
"essential components".
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